Making Your Own Grounded Pliers
Let’s face it, making your own (DIY) grounded pliers for Permanent Jewelry Micro Welding is NOT rocket science. We all have different strengths and weaknesses, so this task may or may not be for you. Custom made or customizing tools is not bad at all. I recommend it. You will end up having a tool that meets your specific needs/style of work.
There are multiple things to consider when making these pliers. Let’s start at the welder and work our way out to the pliers for this discussion.
Banana Plug
ALL Micro Welders that I have seen so far, be they Un-Branded, PUK or Orion, use a standard 4mm Banana plug for their grounding connection. I say standard, because this size of banana plug is extremely common. You can find them all over the internet. I have been using them for electronics test leads myself for over 45 years. Yes, I’m an old fart.
They all work the same way. You push the pin “straight” into the hole. When removing, you pull them “straight” out. Some may be tighter than others, but they all fit.
There are different styles of banana plugs, but the majority attach to the wire (after it is stripped) with one or two screws. I prefer the style that uses two screws. One of these screws is tightened down on the stripped wire to make the connection, and the second screw is tightened at a point where it goes against the insulation. The second screw is more about strength of the connection, to help ensure that the wire is not pulled out of the plug.
There are also stackable plugs that allow you to have multiple items plugged in at the same time. Molded plugs seem to be the strongest, but they are limited to whatever wire gauge and length is already attached when you buy them.
Connecting Wire
Length and wire gauge (thickness) are important factors. You have a lot of power that you are trying to get to flow to make a weld. Think of it like a garden hose compared to a fire hose, when trying to fill up a pool. If you have a pump that will put out 100 gallons per minute, your garden hose is not going to be able to handle that flow as well as your fire hose. The longer your hose is, the more loss in pressure you will have at the output due to friction (resistance). So, you want your wire to be at a minimum gauge and not too long.
The minimum gauge for a 5’ long or less grounding wire would be 18 gauge. 16 gauge would be better and 14 gauge better yet. The smaller the number, the thicker the wire and the less flexible it becomes. The thickness of the insulation is not included when measuring a wire's gauge. 16-18 gauge seems to be a happy medium between not too stiff and not too thin. The thicker the wire, the less likely you are to break it. A 3’ length is usually quite sufficient for working on a table near the welder itself. Most people prefer 5’-6’ lengths to reach the ankles.
You want to use a stranded copper wire, as solid copper wire is too rigid and would not be flexible enough.
The wire insulation is also something to consider. An Ultra Flexible Soft Silicone Rubber insulated wire is the most flexible, and our wire of choice. PVC insulated wire will work, but it is not nearly as flexible as the silicone rubber insulated wire.
Pliers Connection
The method in which you connect the connecting wire to the pliers is going to be very dependent on the pliers themselves. The stripped wire must be touching and connected to the metal of the pliers by some form or fashion. You can do so with methods like soldering, eyelet with screw, riveting, or even a banana plug welded to the handle. One very important thing to consider is that you need to secure the insulated part of the wire to the pliers too. This gives you a better chance of NOT breaking the wire while in use.
There are 3 common methods of securing the insulated portion of the wire to the pliers.
- Epoxy (needs to be an epoxy formulated for attaching these specific materials)
- Zip Tie
- Electrical Tape
You will want to make sure your connection wire to pliers’ connection is covered/insulated. Most of the time this is accomplished with heat shrink. The cruder your connection is, the more heat shrink you will need. You may very well need more than 1 layer of heat shrink.
The Xuron brand of pliers have grips that you can pull off with a little force, and some holes already in the handles to mount the wire to. The Tronex brand of pliers have grips on them that must be cut off as they are epoxied on. We can get the cleanest installation using the Tronex brand of pliers, as we don’t have to use heat shrink with our method.
Making Your Own Grounded Pliers
Creating your own DIY grounded pliers for Permanent Jewelry Micro Welding isn't rocket science. Customizing your tools can result in a perfect fit for your specific needs and work style.
Considerations for Making Grounded Pliers
Starting from the Welder
Let's begin with the welder and move outwards to the pliers.
Banana Plug
All micro welders I've encountered—whether unbranded, PUK, or Orion—use a standard 4mm banana plug for grounding. This size is very common and easily available online. I've used them for electronics test leads for over 45 years, so they're reliable.
Banana plugs work by pushing the pin straight into the hole and pulling it straight out to remove it. Some may fit tighter than others, but they all function the same way.
Most banana plugs attach to the wire (after it is stripped) using one or two screws. I prefer the two-screw style: one screw secures the stripped wire for the connection, while the other reinforces the insulation, ensuring the wire doesn’t pull out of the plug.
Stackable plugs allow multiple items to be plugged in simultaneously. Molded plugs are generally the strongest but are limited by the wire gauge and length they come with.
Connecting Wire
Length and wire gauge (thickness) are important factors. For a grounding wire that is 5 feet or less, the minimum gauge should be 18, with 16 or 14 gauge being better. The smaller the gauge number, the thicker and less flexible the wire becomes. Stranded copper wire is recommended for its flexibility, as solid copper wire is too rigid.
The wire insulation should also be considered. Ultra Flexible Soft Silicone Rubber insulated wire is the most flexible and preferred. PVC insulated wire is less flexible but still functional.
Pliers Connection
Connecting the wire to the pliers depends on the pliers themselves. The stripped wire must touch and connect to the metal of the pliers. Methods include soldering, eyelet with screw, riveting, or welding a banana plug to the handle. It's crucial to secure the insulated part of the wire to the pliers to prevent breakage during use.
Common methods of securing the insulated portion of the wire to the pliers include:
- Epoxy (formulated for the specific materials)
- Zip Tie
- Electrical Tape
Covering/insulating the connection wire to the pliers is typically done with heat shrink. Multiple layers may be needed for crude connections.
Our Method of Connecting the Wire to Tronex Pliers
- Cut off one grip with a razor knife.
- Remove the spring.
- Grind off excess epoxy from the handle and spring using a Foredom right-angle grinder.
- Drill a hole in the bottom of a new grip (3/16” 6” long drill bit).
- Use a 5-foot section of 16-gauge test lead wire and strip one end.
- Install a banana plug on the stripped end of the wire.
- Run the wire through a 2-inch piece of 1/8” automotive fuel line.
- Run the wire through the hole in the new handle.
- Strip the wire.
- Solder the wire to the handle using a heavy-duty soldering iron.
- Apply epoxy inside the grip and slip it on the handle with the spring installed.
- Apply epoxy inside the drilled hole for the wire.
- Press the fuel line (strain relief) against the handle.
- Install a 2.5-inch piece of 5/8” - 3:1 heat shrink over the handle and fuel line.
Our Method of Connecting the Wire to Xuron Pliers
- Slip off the grip from the handle that does NOT contain the spring
- Drill a hole in the bottom of a new grip (3/16” 6” long drill bit).
- Re-drill the grip with a 1/8” 6” long drill bit.
- Use a 5-foot section of 16-gauge test lead wire and strip one end.
- Install a banana plug on the stripped end of the wire.
- Run the wire through a 2-inch piece of 1/8” automotive fuel line.
- Run the wire through the hole in the new handle.
- Strip the wire.
- Run the stripped portion of the wire through the lower hole in the metal handle
- Use an aviation rivet to fill the remaining portion of the hole, attaching the wire to the handle
- Slip the grip onto the handle
- Press the fuel line (strain relief) against the handle.
- Install a 2.5-inch piece of ½” - 3:1 heat shrink over the handle and fuel line.
- Install a 2.5-inch piece of 5/8” - 3:1 heat shrink over the handle, ½” heat shrink and fuel line.
Selecting the Pliers
Choosing pliers depends on budget, functionality, and comfort. Smooth-jawed pliers are essential to avoid scratching your work. While the Xuron 475 Short Stub Nose is common, the Xuron 450BN Bent Tweezer Nose is also a great option. Bent nose pliers allow better visibility and access while welding. The comfort of the pliers in your hand is crucial, especially for prolonged use. The Tronex brand is known for its comfort.
Weak Points
The typical weak point is where the wire bends repeatedly at a sharp angle. Installing a strain relief is key to preventing breakage. Thin wires can break, especially at the stripped area. Banana plugs can also break if not pressed straight in or if subjected to strong side forces. Having a backup pair is recommended.
Conclusion
Consider whether it's worth your time to make your own grounded pliers or if it would be better to buy a premade version. Customizing or creating your own grounded pliers can significantly enhance your micro welding setup, giving you a tool tailored to your specific requirements.
Banana plugs can be replaced and wires can be re-attached to pliers, but you know if they are going to break, it is going to happen at the most inopportune time. That I why I recommend having a backup pair with you.
What is your time worth? Is it worth your time to make your own, or would you be better off buying a premade version?
By: Curt Fargo
President
Fargo Enterprises, Inc.
dba www.Micro-Tools.com